St. Patricks Day isn’t something we celebrate in a huge way here. But, I always cook up some Corned Beef and Cabbage in the slow cooker and enjoy picking out green clothes for the kids and I. I was contacted by someone for Patty Young’s new line of prints for Riley Blake Fabrics. When I saw this Damask print for her new Primavera line, I knew I found the perfect print for my daughter’s St. Patrick’s Day outfit. Since, I just sewed up my first Lil Luxe Collection pattern recently and fell completely in love with the company, I decided to choose another of their patterns. This time the Monarch Top and the Papillon Shorties. The Monarch Top was in my Make 9 List for 2017 for my daughter, so hooray for checking off lists!
Making this top took me a lot longer than it should have. The kids and I were all hit with the flu right after I cut the pattern pieces and I seemed to take it the worst. 4 days with a fever, body aches and light headedness. I was exhausted. Every now and then I would start to feel a little better and in those moments I would venture to my sewing space and slowly put in a little work on this shirt. But, it was really slow moving. But, progress is progress and eventually it got done.
This pattern was absolute perfection. I really love how Lil Luxe Collection thinks of the insides as much as the outside of their construction. The bodice is lined and the skirt/peplum uses french seams. I use french seams quite a bit, even when patterns don’t call for them. I really prefer the look of a french seam to a serged seam. Usually, when I do french seams I use a pattern with a 1/2″ or 5/8″ seam allowance, but these french seams were made with just a 3/8″ seam allowance. Which means, the first stitch had to be made with a 1/8″ seam allowance. Since I was using quilting cotton this was easily done. If I had been using something that slides around or frays more, I would have added to the seam allowance a little.
My favorite part of the construction of this garment, was attaching the gathered skirt to the bodice. Since the garment has a button down front, Lil Luxe Collection was wise enough to have us sew the skirt, bodice main and bodice lining all in one swoop with the skirt rolled up on the inside. I personally don’t like the look of a topstitch by a gathered skirt and stitching in the ditch just never works for me. I usually end up hand stitching my linings, but this time I got a super clean look with so much ease. It was amazing!
I sewed up a size 5 and extended it to the length of a size 8. This was a super easy pattern to extend, since the gathered skirt pieces are simple rectangles and the bodice is straight (the side seam goes straight down parallel to the center). I just had to add the length to the bottom of the pattern pieces, instead of cutting and spreading. Easy peasy!
The fit of this garment is spot on. Sometimes, children’s patterns can run a bit big I find, but Lil Luxe Collection patterns seem to have a more fitted finished look in my opinion. There’s still a little room for growth in length and a 1″ hem that could always be taken out if we choose.
For this outfit, I also sewed up the Papillion Shorties, also by Lil Luxe Collection. These shorts are so easy to sew up and barely take any fabric. I was able to use the leftovers I had from the Harper Pants I sewed up this past fall. The olive green twill worked perfect for this pattern. My daughter is about 2 sizes smaller at her waist than her hips. I considered grading the pattern at the waist, but decided to make her size according to her hips and then just tighten the elastic in the back a bit more. Since I used a heavier twill, I didn’t want to gather the back waistband too much, so these run slightly large at her waist. I don’t think it would be an issue if I had used a lighter weight fabric though. Fortunately, they’re not falling off her waist. They just don’t hug the waist as much as I would have liked.
I did add a simple backstitch in some pink embroidery thread slightly above the scalloped edge of the front waistband. I did this after sewing on the facing and before attaching the waistband to the short. It’s a nice touch and it matches the pink fabric I used for the lining of the pocket bag. Being the perfectionist that I am, I almost picked it out since it’s a bit wavy, but my daughter really liked the added stitching and convinced me to keep it on there. I’m happy she did because it makes the scalloped edge stand out so much more. And, I really think that’s one of my favorite design details of these shorts.
We’ve had some really crazy weather here lately. It got up to 70 degrees the day these pictures were taken and it’s suppose to snow on Tuesday. Looks like my daughter will be wearing this outfit with tights and a sweater for St. Patricks Day! Does your family have any St. Patricks Day traditions? Have you decided what everyone will be wearing?
Fabric: Primavera Damask in Green by Patty Young for Riley Blake Fabrics and a Marc Jacobs Military Olive Cotton Twill purchased from Mood Fabrics (no longer available)